The Chunky Sneaker Champion
The new shoes drop May 10th, available at Opening Ceremony. Text by John Martin Tilley.
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Behind the Scenes at RAISEfashion
The organization is led by Executive Director Felitia Harris. Designers I spoke with described her as someone they aspire to be. Harris is a beloved connector, driven by her mission to provide black designers with the support and resources that have diminished in recent years. Her strategy centers on fostering inclusivity from within. Since the project’s founding in 2020, following the resurgence of the Black Lives Matter movement, RAISE has tapped into fashion’s existing community, using it as a platform to increase racial equity in the industry through collaboration.
Each year, the organization provides select designers with a seasonal grant, which comes with pro bono consulting to help emerging labels refine their strategic marketing efforts. This year’s spring preview featured brands ranging from Keith Herron’s Cali-based Advisry to Kingsley Gbadegesin’s justice-focused K.NGSLEY. Their garments were showcased alongside a new 90s luxury line by Abercrombie & Fitch, a sponsor of the event. Abercrombie collaborated with Janae Harmon and TyAnn Amos to bring this collection and event to life.
Take a look at some of the Masterclass 2024 designers below.
Aisling Camps
After graduating from Columbia University and New York's Fashion Institute of Technology, designer Aisling Camps immersed herself in the creation of handcrafted knits. Whether or not she is doing a "sustainability lean", her material-conscious label focuses on developing high-quality textiles. Recently, she collaborated with Moda Operandi, traveling to actress Isabella Rossellini’s Long Island farm to create a collection using wool from Rossellini’s heritage sheep — each unique in its characteristics, which Camps likens to “heirloom tomatoes.”
This season, her brand emphasizes textures and fabrication, featuring materials such as boiled wool sourced from Italy and brushed mohair. Novelty yarns serve as the foundation for the collection, heavily inspired by the tree roots and waterfalls of Trinidad, Camps' hometown. Referring to her design process, she explains, “Every garment is perfectly undone, with the scraps of one piece becoming the basis for the next.” The organic lines of her designs, which accentuate the female form, reflect her zero-waste philosophy, using fabric in a way that avoids excess.
Burkindy
Burkina Faso-born artist and designer Burkindy blends cultural symbols with natural elements to honor the heritage that informs his work. In his latest collection, he incorporates fluid, organic forms into bracelets and necklaces designed to drape across the body. His animal-shaped rings, crafted in gold and silver, reflect a deep appreciation for classic designs, yet each piece bears his distinctive touch.
Handcrafting all jewelry molds in Brooklyn, Burkindy has a dedicated storefront in Crown Heights where admirers of the brand can explore the collection. In addition to his jewelry, Burkindy’s creative practice spans Ready-to-Wear and visual art, integral to his artistic process. A pivotal moment for his brand came when he connected with Felitia Harris through a mutual friend, leading to his involvement with RAISE — a transformative experience for his career.
Kingsley Gbadegesin
There’s no deeper meaning behind Kingsley Gbadegesin’s newest collection — the Nigerian-American designer’s work is rooted in the idea that form follows function. For him, it’s about creating a feeling and making something personal for each wearer. Putting a sexy spin on prep-styled pieces, from cropped polos to sheer silhouettes, Gbadegesin designs with fabrics and fits that excite him, fueling his body-centric work.
With a background in sales and merchandising, Gbadegesin shares his vulnerabilities through his creations.“ If you follow the label,” he says, “you’re judging me, you’re feeling me, you’re dressing in me, sans it [the label] being named K.NGSLEY.” Bridging the gap in equity for queer and Black communities is central to his brand’s ethos. During the pandemic, a friend encouraged him to join RAISE, where he met Aisling Camps, his “business wife.” Their collaboration has accelerated the pace and process that shape his garments.
Keith Herron
Keith Herron launched his label, Advisry, in California at just 13, and he has consistently found innovative ways to deliver cult-favorite pieces to his audience. Expanding beyond garments, Herron has explored multimedia projects, including film and music, which further define his brand’s identity.
At this year’s RAISEfashion showcase, Herron joined a BOF panel to discuss building his fanbase, upcoming partnerships with retailers in Korea, and strategies for brands to incorporate wholesale to expand their reach. Leveraging his connections from the program to boost his direct-to-consumer market, Herron continues to create standout pieces, such as graphic tees and wide-leg trousers, paying homage to his inspirations, Pharrell and Virgil Abloh.
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MOWALOLA SS25
Known for her fearless approach to design, Mowalola’s show promised not just a visual spectacle but a profound cultural statement — a culmination of her passions: fashion, music, and her mission to reshape narratives around the Black experience. This season, she pushed boundaries even further, crafting a collection that redefined what fashion can communicate. The show was set against a pulsating soundtrack, featuring live performances that paid homage to hip-hop and punk while embracing the edgy sounds of the underground scene. Models strutted down the runway to this powerful rhythm, draped in pieces that were as raw as they were bold.
True to form, Mowalola’s collection was a riot of color and texture. PVC and leather, staples in her previous works, returned in futuristic silhouettes that fused streetwear sensibilities with avant-garde shapes. But it wasn’t just about the clothes; each look told a story — a bold reclamation of Black narratives, individuality, and freedom of expression.
One standout moment featured pieces emblazoned with the word “Ebony,” drawing attention to the fetishization of Black individuals worldwide. These designs were more than just fashion statements; they kicked up conversations about race, identity, and belonging, inviting the audience to reflect on their relationship with themes on display.
As her seventh Fashion Week presentation came to a close with supermodel Irina Shayk, it was clear that Mowalola had once again succeeded in doing what she does best: challenging the status quo. With every collection, she continues to break new ground, reminding us that fashion is not just about aesthetics — it’s about identity, culture, and the power of storytelling.
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London Fashion Week SS25
Editor Sahir Ahmed and stylist Marissa Baklayan report back from London.
Friday, September 13
10:35am Waking up in The London EDITION, the first thing that came to mind was the room service from the night before. Caesar salads, mac & cheese, chicken noodle soup, and peppermint tea materialized like a dream before our droopy eyes. London, crisp and cold, greeted us like the early days of a New York winter.
Our first show of the day is Di Petsa, and we’re already late. Knowing shows tend to start at least 15 minutes late, we're hopeful as we get into our car. Outside, a man eager for his photo op waved Marissa down for a selfie before someone from the PR team urges us inside.
We entered just as the lights dimmed for the show to start, and with our seats too far into the corner, we decided to stay at the entrance, steering clear of judgmental gazes from the front row.
Fashion is a fantasy, defined by how well the illusion holds. Designer Dimitra Petsa looks to ancient myths for hers. Rather than go the quiet luxury route of subtle, yet expensive details like cashmere inside the pocket of a dress, Petsa’s fantasy virtually drips down the runway. SS25 told the Greek tragedy of Ariadne and the Minotaur. Flowy drapery recalls the “Wet Look” dresses of her SS20 collection.
Being late to a show has its pros — watching from the entrance means being one of the first to exit. Avoiding the queue, we head back to The Edition for a work session and brunch.
1:21pm Ancuta Sarca brings us back to 180 Strand. Outside, a crowd of protestors swarms the entrance with signs that read: “Fashion represents us all!”; “Beauty has no boundaries.”; “Love all shapes, all sizes” — among other statements.
2:33pm I ruminate on the collared silver pumps and the protestors on our way to Yuhan Wang.
There, we obsess over the boxing gloves, this season being inspired by female fighters from around the world. Wang mixes lace, silk, and leather with the same prowess with which she marries the feminine and the masculine.
4:45pm We stop by a pub before Puppets & Puppets and head there after a pint.
A favorite of New York’s downtown scene, in February designer Carly Mark announced a pivot — from ready-to-wear to accessories — and a move — from the New York Fashion Week circuit to London’s. A practical decision, with Mark citing the cost of producing full collections not aligning with her community’s ability to afford them. By focusing on bags, Mark is playing it smart, recognizing the brand’s strengths, and paring back as she figures out what this next chapter might mean. The presentation felt more like a performance piece than a fashion show, and for a designer who started as a fine artist, that makes perfect sense. Not only smart, it seems Mark is having fun again.
7:05pm We head out to our last show of the day, Natasha Zinko. Styled by Betsy Johnson, the show felt like an eerie reflection of our collective obsession with all things plastic. After the show, we run into musician Brooke Candy, who describes the collection as “psych ward meets plastic surgery.” Candy is a sage. Zinko is her favorite designer, enough so that she recorded a video of every single thing that came down the runway.
8:03pm Should we stay for the afters? We pause for a moment and look around, staring blankly at the frantic crowd building around the bar, jostling for vodka sodas. No…
We head to the hotel for a nightcap and our beds.
Saturday, September 14
12:24pm The pigeons must chirp louder in New York, or these walls are really that thick. We sleep in until noon — partly jet-lagged, but mostly drained after yesterday’s marathon of shows. We start the day slowly, lounging at The Edition’s Berners Tavern, before heading out for Nensi Dojaka that evening, our first and only show of the day. The most A-list front row we’ve seen so far. We see British actress Simone Ashley, poet-model Kai Isaiah Jamal, and former i-D editorial director Olivia J. Singer sporting a charm-maxed Miu Miu bag.
Dojaka is a genius with form and feminine sensibility — how the clothes hug the body. And the tights? Fab.
8:53pm After lingering at the cocktail party for a moment, we head to The Face’s, where I log off.
Sunday, September 15
1:13pm Today feels like a Saturday. Our first show of the day is the whimsical Simone Rocha whose SS25 show is taking place at the Old Bailey, England’s central criminal court. The show was the most romantic we’ve seen so far, like flipping through a book of fairytales. Oversized tulle bags and voluminous skirts, ruffles, sparkles, and crystal embellishments — all with Rocha’s signature.
6:35pm KNWLS casting was perfect. Mar loved the fascinators, which felt like a modern, avant-garde nod to headpieces from the 30s and 60s. Designers Charlotte Knowles and Alexander Arsenault have clearly found their groove.
8:36pm Now what?
London’s fashion week parties are sparse, unlike New York where two or three potentially okay parties share the same night. But we also don't want to be boring. In the end, we settle on another early night at The Edition (yes, we do just love it that much).
Monday, September 16
11:46am We wake up with Ashley Williams on our minds. I order a car for what turns out to be a three-minute ride. “You know it’s just around the corner, right?” our driver turns to me and says. “Yes,” I reply, unashamed of not checking before ordering a car. “It’s a better way to show up anyway.”
We see musician Harmony Tividad outside in the cutest Ashley Williams look, serving her best take on "office siren." Mar, also in Ashley, stops to take a photo.
The show was about growing up — how strange it feels when your perspective shifts and the things you once thought you understood become foreign. Models appeared as if thrown out of a time machine from the 2010s, with slowed-down versions of songs like Miley Cyrus’ “The Climb” eerily soundtracking the scene. Each look captured the uneasy transition from adolescence to adulthood, where milestones slip out of reach, and the promises of maturity begin to fade.
At Burberry, Daniel Lee brought together outerwear, eveningwear and casualwear, which ironically felt very New York. Who wouldn't benefit from an outfit that can carry you from the office to the cocktail hour in the middle of a chilly winter?
6:02pm After, we treat ourselves to an end-of-the-week dinner at The Edition’s Berners Tavern. Tuna Tartare with a punchy wasabi dressing, Galician octopus with smoky chorizo sauce, to-die-for mac & cheese, and Rib-Eyes, seared and served with Béarnaise sauce, and too many glasses of wine selected by the Berners’ in-house sommelier. It's safe to say that after dinner we're feeling ready for Mowalola.
The FOMO that’d come with missing the show was enough to get us dressed and out the door. We see stylist Betsy Johnson and friends and squeeze in next to her as the show is meant to start. It starts an hour later, voices whispering that the hold-up is, of course, Ye and Bianca, notorious for being the last ones in. They never show.
As the show unfolds, Mowalola parades around the dark space with a microphone in hand — not for dramatic effect, but singing! While debuting unreleased tracks, models stream into the space as videographers and photographers move around them. The show felt more like watching the making of a music video than a fashion week presentation. As always, the show radiated heat, centering Blackness with bold statements like latex tube dresses emblazoned with "EBONY," an abundance of miniskirts, and cropped fur coats that I can only dream of stepping out in.
Tuesday, September 17
London Fashion Week had a similar energy to New York’s, albeit with a quarter of the parties. What felt most familiar was the sheer abundance of new talent that defined the week — from Fashion East’s Johanna Parv, Olly Shinder, and Samara Scott to CSM alum Aaron Esh. At its heart, this season was about storytelling.
Each designer this week told a different kind of fantasy. Ashley Williams' nostalgic take on adolescence captured the emotional volatility of growing up, while Di Petsa reached further back, weaving a mythic world rooted in Ancient Greece. Nensi Dojaka presented a hyper-feminine fantasy of sensuality, while Natasha Zinko pulled us into a chillingly familiar plastic reality. Burberry offered a more modern tale, where eveningwear, outerwear, and casual wear blended to create a new kind of practicality. In every case, London’s designers constructed worlds of their own, but, in the end, the question stands, how well will the illusion hold? We'll just have to see.
Until next season!
