Oh and the peacock feathered suit was killer. See it, and our other favorite looks from backstage at the presentation, below.
On inspirations
“It’s quite a cliché for a jewelry brand to say this, but nevertheless, it’s true: we seek inspiration in the world of arts, architecture and nature. It’s what moves around us, it’s what we are and it’s ever-evolving and inspiring. Just like people and that’s what we are, that’s who we’re creating jewelry for and they’re ultimately also of huge importance to us, in our creation process.”
On creative references
“Our design language is seeking to balance the structural with the organic, always with the intent on creating contemporary yet timeless pieces of jewelry. Our team is composed of individuals with different backgrounds from the fashion and jewelry industry and we strive to bring our individuality and utilize our differences to create unique and exciting jewelry. We see our capabilities as a reflection of the brand essence.”
On practicalities
“We design and build the collection in Copenhagen, Denmark and utilize an external production facility. The way a collection is initiated with the notion of bringing something new and fresh into the creation process whilst maintaining a recognizable design-dna. We still see ourselves as a relatively new brand, which is why this approach to design is crucial to us. In a world of ever up-and-coming new brands, we want to establish ourselves and create a unique and recognizable jewelry universe.”
On the work process
“We’re a small team that consists of four full-time employees, which is why we work very closely together. Our collections are created around a “classic” Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter schedule mainly due to our sales strategy. However we have incorporated smaller drops like a Holiday Collection. The collection always starts with a seasonal influx of inspiration, combined with input from Sales and Press. We believe that working united and from a data point of view is the way forward – of course with a touch of that RAGBAG dna.”
On the power of jewelry in the modern world
“The unique thing about jewelry is that it still has the ability to even contain power in the modern world. The way people attribute a rite of passage, a memory of a loved one or a power is something that has been embedded in jewelry for centuries and in our opinion it’s not something that will change – at least not for the time being. As we’re gradually becoming more distant as a collective society and social beings, we think that physical objects, like jewelry, have the capability to reconnect and re-establish connections and sentiment between people.”
Here, clothes were exemplified by a dialogue between high and low elements: a knitted, billowing cardigan with conventionally-fashioned maxi prints was the most obvious example; a cropped blouse lined in a stripy pattern was another. True to form, PHIPPS augmented these contrasts with a tomboyish seam, where tailoring gained a gentle boxiness throughout showing louche precision. “We decided to hone in on the rugged workwear roots of the label, with a deep dive into the weird Americana and countercultural outsiders that are always at the heart of the brand,” opined Spencer Phipps, explaining that, “We studied iconic images from Richard Avedon’s Into the American West along with other artists exploring similar ideas including Kenneth Anger, David Lynch, Alec Soth and many more. We were looking to spin the iconography of the American West into a contemporary concept of future heritage, creating pieces that were both wildly unique but also somehow familiar.”
The collection also accounted for a practical edge that favored items such as a cotton corduroy or an utilitarian shirt with industrial pocket closings and slightly shrunken proportions. All in all, PHIPPS’ clothes aren’t trend-heavy (the label is, after all, keen to serve a rugged, purpose-driven signature with a unique appreciation for craft and ethical responsibility), but such plainness demands an insightful eye. And don’t ask how Phipps achieves such effects—put it down to commercial mastery.
