Classic, Feminine and Finely-Sculpted Allure: REMAIN SS24

August 09, 2023

In Denmark’s circle, REMAIN has built a reputation as a reliable purveyor of classic yet eye-catching feminine independence, serving-up a dollop of characteristic poise to Spring 2024. It came partly from mixes of subtle complexity, like the earth-tinged, cinched waistlines teamed with boxy accessories and noir heels, or the dusky offerings that morphed key staples in sculpted, elongated forms. But there’s more to the story.

The collection’s theme was the established ideas of tailoring both “observed and reworked,” championing the likes of masculine shapes and, in turn, sculpting them into a wardrobe that holds a potent throughline in the womenswear front. For some, such a category might initially seem a been-there-done-that affair. In Copenhagen, however, the minimalist equivalent and stylistic nuances aren’t defined as such. So, really, what we’re addressing here is a Danish conceit parsed with contemporary flair.

Text by Chidozie Obasi
Photos courtesy of REMAIN

And in fact, this is not the first time REMAIN has felt the urge to strip things back. But leave the reinvention of classics to a Scandi vision who always puts the polish at the forefront of the edgy. Still, you could sense that edge was gaining ground in this season’s proposal of femininity, spanning across dynamic leather pieces, gauzy transparent knits, to the delicate shirting and flowing sheer hand-embellished skirts — to wit, they were intensifying the effect of each item through the power of contrasts. Sculptural silhouettes in audacious cuts felt more rebellious than the subtle, neutral color pairings and volumes here, accentuated by in-built boning, fitted and ruched waist details, and chunky belts.

Retailers will gravitate towards coated denim and diaphanous blouses, which could blend easily into just about any wardrobe — ensuring that even the simplest of offerings never end up feeling too drafty.

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Born in the Moroccan town of Tétouan and educated in Paris, Khattabi’s upbringing required him to make sense of how the different influences surrounding him could align. In turn, his designs explore the embedded codes and history of his bicultural background. Total Recall addresses this phenomon by including garments meant to reflect adaptation and transformation. Skirts made of tire covers and motorcyle tarpaulins refashioned into dresses are scattered across the collection, conveying notions of displacement. Blending these elements adds an industrial touch to the pieces while still keeping a sense of movement.

From sweatpants infused with polka dots to nostaglic slogans and banner display, the ensembles symbolize hidden identities and memories. Giving us a glimpse into his own memories, Khattabi's work evokes affection for the past. It's a nod to the interconnectedness of culture and how we interact with its complexitites creatively. View the collection below.