Malcolm Marquez Brings Us Back to our Roots
The thing about hair is that it always has this confounding question: What else can I do? Cornrows lead into box braids, which lead into a big chop or finger waves, and if you've ever seen a Hype Hair magazine — the list can go on and on. The wonderland of all things hair is a love that leads in the black community. We can all inherently share the same experiences and appreciation for twelve-hour knotless braids and the step-by-step process of wig installments. Malcolm Robinson is an artist of color that— without even trying, hones in everything that we adore about hair all into one. Since we know what's going on around the exterior of Marquez's head— let's dive deeper into his process and the interior of his perspectives. With a cute interview, Malcolm answers the questions we want to know. He also gives us a little peek into his polaroids. 'Wanna see? Keep reading.
This question is pretty simple. What is your life's mantra?
It's different every day depending on what my mind needs, but one that does repeat is, "go get what's yours."
At what age did hair become a staple in your identity?
I would say around 14. Like most teenagers, I was obsessed with changing my hair. It was a way for me to learn about myself. Hair has such a strong power to transform your mood or mindset that I tapped into early. I also found the practice of doing my hair to be meditative. It felt like a form of protection. It started as a self-exploration that as I learned, I wanted to share those same feelings with the people around me. That turned into me doing all my friends' hair and now it’s my life. It never really felt like work.
Do you remember the first hairstyle you ever did for yourself or for a client that was like — “this is it!"
As a professional, I would say that Tinashe’s Songs For You album cover was a big aha moment for me. As simple as the look was, there was a clear intention behind the shape. I was always attracted to hairstyles that break the rules a little. Blunt ends, different lengths, and looks that are slightly impractical. At the same time, it’s a reference to classic looks we have seen from artists like Lisa Left Eye and Janet, who eternally inspire. That look felt like a full activation of all those elements while giving a fresh timeless shape that Tinashe could own.
For BIPOC communities, hair has never been just hair. It details back to so many different accounts of oppression and opened windows of self-expression. How do you tie in culture within your art?
To be honest, I don’t feel like I am doing that consciously— it just happens! As a black hair artist, if I am putting down a blonde lace wig or a full head of braid, it is inherently a piece of culture. Being conscious of who I am and what I’m creating contributes to culture. It’s also important to be aware of those who came before you. Black hair is so dynamic because of how many different ways we have used hair as both expression and survival.
What is it like creating looks for so many clients who have different visions?
I love it. For me, it is about celebrating that individuality. When working with another artist, my goal isn’t to do anything more than help elevate and inspire a fresh look. It’s important to me that they still feel like themselves. What I appreciate about beauty is that — there is not a one size fits all look. It is individuality over everything. Always a collaboration of what’s feeding us both creatively.
I enjoy the creativity that Steve Lacy and yourself have in the braided hairstyles. What is the process behind those looks?
Thank you! Steve and I had wanted to put a look together for a while. Something about him playing with Erykah Badu felt like the right time to finally link up. We agreed that we needed an Afrofuturism moment. The spiral silhouette was inspired by a head crest sculpture that had towering spirals coming out of the head. Steve wears braids so well that it felt like the obvious choice to use braids as the foundation of the look. My hair bestie Fitch Lunar helped me construct the look. 100% favorite braid look I’ve done.
If you could work with anyone and give them a look of your choosing — from simple to avant-garde, who would it be and what?
I’d give Sade her signature braid.
What has been the craziest look you’ve done so far?
I made a sculptural piece for Symone during quarantine and, that was a moment. I recreated a look by Mathu Andersen originally worn by Ru Paul in the “Back To Your Roots” video. I had been spending lockdown hopping around Arizona, making pieces in Airbnbs, and shipping them to clients. When she requested the look, I had never met her and didn’t know it was about to be on Drag Race. The process of creating that piece influenced me creatively and happened under some crazy circumstances. It was even more rewarding to watch her win the whole season representing black beauty so proudly.
Are there any goals that you’re trying to achieve in this year of 2022?
2021 was already more fruitful than I could have imagined. It’s rebuilt my trust in divine timing and to not overthink what has happened each calendar year. It has taught me to be mindful of the journey. My only real goal is to continue to grow as an artist and a person.
