MM6 Maison Margiela

September 20, 2018

Chandeliers dangled from low ceilings along with exit signs and extension cords in the dusty, windowless cellar. Platforms decked out in wallpaper and shattered mirrors were lit by bare fluorescent bulbs on the floor. As people milled around, a piece of drywall fell over, making a sudden crash. This was the scene at the MM6 Maison Margiela SS ’19 presentation on Monday, the penultimate day of London Fashion Week.

After standing and waiting (in typical Margiela fashion, there were no assigned seats) for a solid 30 minutes, metal music began to roar, before quickly switching to the decadent tones of a French harpsichord—it was sonic whiplash courtesy of the brand. The dissonant soundtrack continued throughout the show, as models filed out, stopping on platforms placed throughout the basement to pose only for a moment, before continuing on their walk through the dark, damp cellar.

Text by Drew Zeiba

This clash of sound also defined the clothes—streetwear meets Belle Époque, their mixture and creation inspired by rediscovery and replication—where pieces from Clignancourt flea markets served as the basis for patterns or as actual fabric to be reused.

Satin dresses were paired with hoodies and rococo pastels met 21st century black and ripped denim. While appliqué garments on streetwear might sound a bit Balenciaga, the effects and motivations here were entirely different (not least of all in that a portion of the proceeds from this collection will be going to the French HIV/AIDS non-profit AIDES, which Margiela has supported since 1994). Less a practice in self-indulgent irony, these vintage-inspired creations were a self-conscious exercises in pastiche—zombie looks for an era of undead references and unceasing remixes.

View some of the highlights, below.

Photos courtesy of the brand.

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Born in the Moroccan town of Tétouan and educated in Paris, Khattabi’s upbringing required him to make sense of how the different influences surrounding him could align. In turn, his designs explore the embedded codes and history of his bicultural background. Total Recall addresses this phenomon by including garments meant to reflect adaptation and transformation. Skirts made of tire covers and motorcyle tarpaulins refashioned into dresses are scattered across the collection, conveying notions of displacement. Blending these elements adds an industrial touch to the pieces while still keeping a sense of movement.

From sweatpants infused with polka dots to nostaglic slogans and banner display, the ensembles symbolize hidden identities and memories. Giving us a glimpse into his own memories, Khattabi's work evokes affection for the past. It's a nod to the interconnectedness of culture and how we interact with its complexitites creatively. View the collection below.