Some Assembly Required

March 05, 2018

The former car park, turned Libération headquarters, turned public space, would now be the setting for sacai’s Fall/Winter 2018 show. As guests crowded in the empty lobby to take the small elevator up the garage floors, it was a clear departure from sacai’s usual showings at Palais de Tokyo. However, the new space with stripped walls and bare concrete, would soon be filled with the brand’s signature piecemeal plaids and pleats.

All the characteristics of a sacai collection were present— hand-knit sweaters cut with chiffon details, side hanging pleated skirts over wool stockings, shoelace belts— all reinforced the idea of hybrid clothing. The idea of building block construction was emphasized most notably in the outwear and mismatched shoes, including a fur coat and blazer combination and a half-denim, half-tuxedo jacket.

Text by Justine Hwang

With all Chitose Abe’s collections, there is a lot to look at, with an almost overwhelming amount of details. But her continued exploration of accessories and graphics was a high point with its fluorescent zipper accents and original take on a record bag. Seeing a sacai collection is often like trying to finish a complex puzzle, where the pieces that shouldn’t fit, somehow transform themselves to create something better than the original. But reinterpreting garment construction through the idea of assemblage is what Abe does best, and this collection continues to remix the conventions of how clothing can be made.

Photos courtesy of sacai

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