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Balenciaga Spring 24: A Time-Lapse through Paris Streets

[Balenciaga Spring 2024]

Demna’s response to the Winter ‘23 collection explained his direction for the latest season. “I have decided to go back to my roots in fashion as well as to the roots of Balenciaga,“ Demna said. “The provocative aspect of my work often got misinterpreted and misunderstood, and I no longer feel like applying it to my designs.” 

 

“To make quality clothes” is the intention behind the new, classic version of Demna-directed Balenciaga. A shift in creative direction we’ve seen since his first collection after the ad controversy, the catalyst to Demna's return to the roots of the House. Which is why his latest shows presented clothing you have seen before — on purpose. For the Winter '23 collection, guests received an invitation by mail of the pattern for a regular fit blazer, an introduction into a Balenciaga reset as Demna reverted back to the foundation of Balenciaga — suiting. 

 

Unlike the extra-large blazers leading Winter '23, the latest collection featured more oversized coats. In Spring '24, for example, the oversized suiting in look 14 is similar to most looks in the previous Winter 23 collection. However, the suiting is outweighed by extra-long coats — reference look 15, 16, and 18 — throughout the 44-look Spring collection for a far less formal, more everyday look.

[Balenciaga Winter 2023]

The last time Demna presented the Garde-Robe line at a show was on the trading floor of the New York Stock Exchange—Spring ‘23. A collection leading the campaign which fell into controversy, then resulted in a more muted following three collections. Fetish bodysuits concealed the models’ identities with Garde-Robe, Evening Wear, and Balenciaga / Adidas layered over full-body latex. 

 

However, the presentation of Garde-Robe classics — Dresses, Blazers, Coats — in Spring ‘23 is far more provocative than the latest collection. The Garde-Robe line, in Spring ‘24, once presented over latex, is now revealed in a more family-friendly, everyday context. Demna removed the noisy latex from Spring ‘23, with his latest collection instead “as ordinary an act as retrieving a coin from the pavement or zooming by on a skateboard.” 

 

Demna directs you to take a look inside your personal wardrobe and count the foundational, must-have pieces for your daily errands. For Balenciaga, they would open their closet to a wide selection of extra-large blazers, pumps, and ultra-tight zip-ups — ”styled for a day-to-day” — at least for the season.

 

[Balenciaga Spring 2023]

Compared to Demna’s latest Spring ‘24 collection, the Balenciaga 50th Couture collection had a similar pedestrian take — Zip-Up Hoodies, Japanese Denim, Sunglasses — but with House icons like the Domed Hat. However, the looks for Spring ‘24 were more casual than couture (obviously!) with bath towels wrapped at the waist — maybe, to dry your hair from sudden downpour just as in the latest show. Parkas, Carcoats, and Puffers borrowed swing-back silhouettes from Couture 50, with a new 24/7 Bag, an everyday bag for a quick run to the supermarket. 

 

The ultra-casual pedestrian look of Spring ‘24 ended with lightweight ball gowns for added mobility — what would Balenciaga be without gowns? — to remind viewers of who Balenciaga is. Even when the collection is just a real time observation of city movement, Demna will always be Balenciaga with a Capital B.

[Balenciaga 50th Couture]

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