Facing the Nordic Terrain: Deadwood FW23
office had a chance to sit down with co-founder Carl Ollson to talk about the new collection, what it was like using previously untapped materials, and the future of the brand.
What has been a staple of your process since the start?
We started out making leather jackets from what you would call post-consumer waste. Old garments that would have reached their expiration date in terms of style. The fabric was still good though. We collected these fabrics and put them together into new styles. The result was the patina of a vintage leather jacket but with an updated fit. Patchwork bonanza. We have since moved on to not use “old” leather. As we grew, we couldn’t keep working that way so we moved on to making the leather industry somewhat more waste efficient. Now, we buy deadstock fabrics and rejected hides from tanneries. We also use post-production waste for our smaller accessories.
Is there a theme that Deadwood FW23 embodies? How so?
The collection contrasts the warmth and perceived safety of our everyday lives with a harsh and unpredictable side of nature. When even the rock underneath our feet is subject to violent change, what can we do other than seize whatever sliver of time is given? Deep huh? Haha! For FW23 we revisit our original patchwork techniques and elevates the biker silhouette to return it to the core of the brand. Deadstock denim and mycelium leather pieces are introduced for the first time, alongside the continuation of recycled aluminum-, cactus- and deadstock leather.
What was it like working with deadstock denim and mycelium leather for the first time?
Denim as a material is really what kicked of any type of interest in fashion for me. Shout out to Solo. A multi brand store where me and Felix met like fourteen years ago. Making denim has always been on our list. It is, like leather, such an amazing, “living” material. How it ages and gets, in my opinion, better with age. The mycelium thing is the most awesome thing we’ve done. Been following the development of the product for years so it was great to finally be able to create something from it. The fact that we were the first ones to make actual clothing of the material is pretty cool. I think we’re the third company to work with Reishi® after the likes of Hermes and Heron Preston.
Were there any environments that came to mind when conceptualizing the collection?
Yes. Our FW23 collection is inspired by wild climates, which is why we picked the Nordic region. With its cool marine coastal climate to the more humid continental climate, and the volcanic landscapes with their explosive potential and power underneath, the environment is highly unpredictable.
Sustainability has become a buzzword over the last handful of years, how does Deadwood remain apart from the noise?
We’ve never really gone out proclaiming ourselves as environment heroes in any way. Yes, we were early. We try to make something a little bit better. It’s fun as well. Everybody can make a t-shirt. I try not to pay that much attention to what other brands are doing. Don’t get me wrong I’m totally aware of a lot of them green-washing the shit out of their brands. If I spent my days thinking about this, I wouldn’t get anything done. If you think of sustainability as a buzzword or trend it’s quite depressing but the debate that’s been sort of created due to people throwing the word around is a good thing, I guess.
With the turn to second-hand and vintage stores cropping up everywhere, how does it feel knowing that Deadwood has been around since 2012?
It’s wild. You feel old and proud at the same time. All the different shapes Deadwood has taken over the years is real fun to think about. Also the fact that I’ve worked so close with my best friend for what feels like a million years and we’ve found a way to not kill each other. We’ve put out some pretty damn shitty, ugly and stupid products but that has somewhat formed the Deadwood we are today. I think one should look back on such a journey with a smile as opposed to being embarrassed by the past. I don’t think we’ve really found our place now even. We’re close but there’s always new things to learn.
Are there any punk rock or alternative icons that you or Felix are inspired by?
Anyone who's stayed true to their beliefs and dreams even though being looked down upon and called a freak.
What’s in store for the future of Deadwood?
We got some fun collabs coming over the course of this spring/summer. First out is a capsule collection we’ve made together with 070 Shake. Drops in April. I wouldn’t sleep on that if I were you.
