Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2018

February 12, 2018

Sorry it’s so late— you must be wondering, “Why? We’re finally on the last leg of Fashion Week, and office is still stuck on Raf?” OK, office has had a busy few days. We had a new issue release. There were big shows this weekend. But, the thing is, that’s not the real reason we’ve been sleepless— Raf is what we're ruminating on. So, this season, Raf Simons did DRUGS.

Definitely an audacious decision for a designer during NYFW. And the by-product? Behold: the Balenciaga Croc of Fall/Winter 2018— with supplementary socio-political weight. We confirmed this season’s conversation starter last week, at Simons’ show where we came cross the controversial FW18 collection for the first time, which was titled, Youth in Motion.

Photos by Kevin Buitrago
Text by Anna Zanes

And really, I would die for Raf. I would. His designs are brilliant, we all count on Simons for superb construction, and cerebral, timelessly cool, continually current attire. Whether it’s Joy Division, Chinatown, or cowboys— there’s an addiction to subculture we see in Simons’ successful aesthetic— his designs deliver an array of dichotomous, almost random references— and somehow, in one season, Simons makes sense of it.

Or does he?

This is the heated question we’ve heard all week. This time, he drew from Drugs, the substance-fueled script by Glenn O’Brien, and Uli Edel’s visceral 1981 film, Christiane F: Wir Kinder vom Bahnhof Zoo (We Children of Bahnhof Zoo), a German story speaking to the the horrors of heroin abuse in the 1980’s. All this, to a soundtrack that spoke the subculture surrounding 90’s acid house techno, on top of the set— an opulent feast symbolic of the salons of mid-century couture houses. Everyone has their opinion— Raf is a fan, it’s just aesthetics. Raf represents the underdog, is shedding light on the lesser-known artists, he sees the avant-garde subcultures of generations long gone. He’s providing a platform for issues, America is in an opioid crisis!

But here it is, and Raf, I hope you’re reading this. You’re an addict. And not an anthropologist— although your drug of choice is culture. You pulled it off, Raf— so, please, be careful. You can do anything, your collection will always be one of the best— you’re cool, and you’re killing it.So don’t let that lead you astray, just leave the political conversations for those who live them.

Fashion

ADEAM ICHI Smells like Teen Spirit

February 12, 2023

Founder and creative director of ADEAM, Hanako Maeda, grew up between Tokyo and New York City. As such, Hanako is attuned to the way that culture transforms across borders, which enables her to design clothes that feel culturally specific, yet universally relevant. She draws inspiration from 90s Japanese streetwear, urbanity and utility.

For Fall/Winter 2023, Hanako returns to NYFW with not one but two collections, both inspired by her formative years growing up in the early aughts. The resurgence of kitschy Y2K fashion trends provoked her to reflect on the culture she consumed in those years, especially the music she listened to. ADEAM and ADEAM ICHI F/W '23 speak to Hanako's teenage self, the "punk-emo kid" that was obsessed with the manga NANA and bopped her head to the likes of Green Day and Blink-182, before shifting to grungier alternative bands, like Sonic Youth and Nirvana, in her later years. She reminds us that “great design isn’t always defined by the novel, nor is it a matter of romanticizing the past.” It doesn’t matter if the design is old, or repeated; fashion is cyclical, albeit trite to say so. To Hanako, great design is “allowing new and old ideas to flourish in the current intellectual and spiritual environment.”

The innovative designer called in our editor-in-chief, Simon Rasmussen, to style ICHI and bring her 'grunge' vision to life.

Text by Sahir Ahmed
Photos by Matt Weinberger
Styling by Simon Rasmussen

While the presentations are often exciting, the time in-between shows during fashion week can make it all feel so monotonous. Hanako’s presentation was a reminder that fashion week is meant to be fun. The show, which included dramatic staging by lighting expert Thierry Dreyfus and a live guitar solo by Japanese model-rockstar Miyavi, felt more like a concert with its theatrics than a fashion show. It was shocking, exciting, and unfortunately, over within minutes, but the nostalgia that surfaced while watching the display will hopefully last a little while longer.

The primary collection embodies punk style in its casual, carefree nature, and deliberate deconstruction. The clothes complement the label’s vision of eveningwear as a progression from daywear — dramatic faux leather silhouettes, sharp suiting, angel hair cardigans, and sweatshirts live harmoniously in the same wardrobe.

ADEAM ICHI, the label’s gender-neutral counterpart, taps into grunge’s utilitarian androgyny, a characteristic that makes the assortment of clothing both intentional and playful. The silhouettes are oversized; the fabrics are durable. Hanako’s love of Japanese workwear led her to incorporate utility features such as pockets, belts and convertible structures. When asked if there was a Nirvana song she’d used to describe ICHI, she didn’t hesitate to say “Smells Like Teen Spirit,” and what a fitting reference, I couldn’t imagine there to be a better display of what teenage angst might look like in 2023.

Fashion

Kicking Off Fashion Week With Basic.Space x MIMCHIK

February 12, 2023

When it comes to throwing the best fashion week events, Basic.Space time and time again comes out on top. Showcasing fashion’s next big thing, the New York and LA-based community-driven marketplace creates an exclusively inclusive URL universe. However, what sets them apart from the rest, Basic.Space takes it a step further by bringing the coolest downtown fashion it-kids out for a night of fun and IRL connection.

Partnering with LA-based brand MIMCHIK, the two set up a night of effortless collaboration. While attracting everyone who’s anyone down into the basement of New York kickback staple Ray’s, the two partners kick off this NYFW with a soiree of live jazz, yummy food, and the ultimate clash of East meets West Coast. VIP’s mingled downstairs while MIMCHIK’s latest collection was strung up on display highlighting the trend-setting art that each piece is.

Text by Cassie Jekanoski
Photos by Sansho Scott

Check out highlights from a night to remember below:

Fashion

Into the World of Tia Adeola

From sheer silhouettes to corseted dresses juxtaposed with rigid outlines, to even continuing to delve deeper into menswear, the designer amplifies her voice and narrative of the unfolding story of who the Tia Adeola person is. Playing into bold colors, and sharp metallics with a touch of effortless femininity, the collection leaves your eye intrigued and wanting to snatch up every look for yourself.

Not only known for the looks that she creates, but Adeola also masters all aspects of how to tell a story. Hair cascading into crowns of braids, beautifully blocked out thin eyebrows with the ultimate glam, each model carried a sense of regality that only elevated each look that appeared to be made just for them. Through her creative lens, Tia Adeola does it again and this time leaves us intrigued to find out what’s next.