Oh and the peacock feathered suit was killer. See it, and our other favorite looks from backstage at the presentation, below.
Why did you decide to do a runway show?
Every year we do a food drive and fundraiser with our winter collection to help New Yorkers in need during the holidays. For this year I started thinking about ways we could make the food drive bigger. I know a lot of people who would like to attend runway shows but don’t have access to them. So I thought, what if we do a runway show, invite everyone, no gatekeeper shit, but to attend, everyone has to bring food to donate.
You always see fashion brands take inspiration from skate brands. I loved the idea of flipping that and making a runway show, but in our own way: having all my friends walk in it who had never walked in a show before, having my dad walk in it, having a stack of food donations by the door when you first entered the space. In the front row, there were buyers from skate shops sitting directly beside buyers from luxury department stores.
I feel like people really got it. I had so many people come up to me after the show and say “I’ve never seen a skate brand do a runway show” or “I’ve never seen a runway show that was a food drive”. It was amazing.
What was the design process like for this collection?
I’m trying to elevate the craftsmanship, fabrics, fit, with every season. The collections are finally developing into what I always wanted: well-crafted track suits, Harrington jackets, collared sweatshirts. I’m always thinking about what me and my family and friends want to wear. What pieces do they need for the different aspects of their life: skating, skate trips, non-skate trips, chilling at home, taking their partner out for a nice dinner, you know.
Do you think runway shows will, or should, become a more common way for skate brands to display their collections?
Everyone should do what feels right to them. Whether it’s a skate brand or not, it’s really up to each individual designer and what they’re trying to accomplish. It’s all about your intention. If they have a creative idea or a fundraising idea or whatever that involves a runway show, then do it.
For us, I really enjoyed putting my friends and the pieces we make together in the context of a runway show. Typically, the pieces made by skate brands are seen as less important than those made by high fashion brands. But by putting our pieces on the runway and in that context forces you to focus on them and the people wearing them in a more thoughtful, elevated way.
This was the fourth annual food drive. Do you feel an obligation to do more than just create clothing?
The work is more meaningful if it’s about more than just clothing. I think as a designer you need to have a rationale for the designs you’re creating, and also a rationale for how you see the world and the way you want to impact it. You have to tie those things together. The people you get to create with and the community around you and how you can impact the world together. That comes first. The clothing is secondary.
Do you plan on more runway shows in the future?
I loved doing this one. If I have another concept that involves a runway show, I would definitely do another one. I’m so grateful for everyone that helped make this last show happen. So many people contributed in huge ways. Because of the show, we were able to donate more food than any other year, so I’m definitely open to doing more.
The clothes are a lot less graphic-heavy than most skate brands. Is that an intentional attempt to separate yourself?
No, it’s just what I like aesthetically. I’ve always been drawn to brands like classic Jil Sander and Prada. Functional, elegant, clean. There are definitely some graphic tees out there that I love. We need to make a few more of them actually. But, artistically our design language is pure and minimal.
Your wife, Marianne, is largely involved in Grand Collection. Has family always been something that drives the brand?
There would be no Grand without Marianne. My family is an influence on everything I do. Thinking about my family and friends is always part of the design process and then bringing the collections to life. Whether that’s the goose designs which are an ode to my hometown in Canada, or me and the homies going on a filming trip to Tokyo or having my dad walk in the show with all my New York family. The people in my life are central to each concept.
What are your goals for Grand Collection moving forward?
Continuing to create things I love, with people that I love, and contribute to the things that we are passionate about.
Two nights ago in Paris, they held their latest fantastical show. And one could easily argue Spring/Summer '23 was one of their best. Building on the concept of creating characters through clothing, and infusing each design with a hefty dose of edge and satire that did anything but sacrifice style or meticulous construction — Vaquera presented yet another flawless collection that felt entirely set apart from the rest of the shows we've seen this season. But the element of surprise, if you know the brand at all, ironically, is to be expected, and enjoyed.
The two designers, both of Southern roots, spoke to the idea of America this season. No, not Americana. Neither Western wear, nor faded denim. As each model hustled haphazardly, eagerly, in true Vaquera form, down the runway, we saw Vaquera breaking down the country as motifs, scrambling them like puzzle pieces and holding each fragment up to a weird and wonderful light. Eerie, elegant, and as unique asever, we're in awash in what we saw, and what they've done. Once again.
Alongside new iterations and colorways of their beloved Love Heels and slimmer versions of their signature slide, Yume Yume presented their new collaboration with the well-matched New York designer Marshall Columbia, as well as a sneak preview of an upcoming collaboration with artist Killa Kate.
Inspired by the range of styles and experimentatal spirit Yume Yume has upheld season to season, without forgoing the chic, core aesthetic that has garnered them stockists around the world and a dedicated and fashionable fanbase, I was desperate to sit down and pick the designer's brain. Read our conversation below.
Your pieces are very sculptural— where do you look for reference and inspiration?
My inspiration comes from things that catch my eye on a regular day and I am drawn to interesting shapes; for example our Tyre slide was inspired by a folded bicycle tyre I saw on the streets of Amsterdam, The Tent mule from the shape of a tent combined with some furniture I had seen and for SS23 we created a magic 8 shaped flip-flop that was inspired by a swimming pool I has seen.
Do you draw from other art forms, mediums?
Most definitely! Art and architecture are areas I like to look to for inspiration; This can be seen in the shape of our designs, right through to the collaborations and partnerships we create. We recently worked with NY based designer Marshall Columbia who likes to experiment with volume and shape, and we will have an exciting interior collaboration coming in the new year. We’re always interested in broadening our connection to other forms of design!
What is the difference between fine art and fashion, and the similarity?
The main difference between fine art and fashion is that fashion design of any sort has a function; We buy shoes or a coat to wear it and use it, whereas fine art is more conceptual. The similarity is that art and fashion are both able to make you feel an emotion and we try to fuse the two worlds in our designs. When people wear our brand, we want them to feel it is part of their identity and to show they are not afraid to be different and unique. I see that fashion and art are coming closer together every year, people are not afraid to wear sculptural clothing and shoes.
What do you feel your designs are doing that others aren’t?
I like to balance on the edge of launching something bold but not unwearable. Something unique and not over exposed. I feel that launching a shoe design that is already in the market makes no sense and I want to evoke some emotion through the designs; whether that is someone loving the shoes or not.
What is the importance of footwear in a look, in your opinion?
In my opinion footwear sets the tone of a look. It can give the look an unexpected touch. We saw a picture of a girl wearing our camp shoes to a wedding ceremony; the bulky shoes contrasted with a dress looked amazing! But equally we like the idea of someone pairing the Love heels with sweatpants when you just want to lift a look but want to chill on a working day. [Laughs]
What is the most important value behind Yume Yume as a brand?
Creating a space where everyone feels free to be themselves and celebrate their uniqueness.
